Monday, April 21, 2014

Bryce Canyon National Park

Met up with Mom and Art at McCarren/LAS airport on Sunday morning on April 20. They were difficult to miss cruising the airport pick-up lanes in their 30-foot RV! Having been in Arizona and Lake Mead since January, this would be their last road adventure before returning home to Reno for the summer.

Masterful parking job by Art in a conventional car space!
View from Mom & Art's Lake Mead RV space

Departing Las Vegas, we immediately headed northeast up I-15 passing through the NW corner of Arizona and then into Utah. Along the way, we passed through Bunkerville, NV where Cliven Bundy is currently waging a battle with the U.S. Government over cattle grazing fees and rights. Because Mr. Bundy's Mormon ancestors originally settled throughout the Virgin (River) Valley (junction of NV, AZ and UT) in the late 1800's, he therefore maintains he shouldn't have to pay for grazing his cattle on public land. Southwestern Utah is a Mormon hotbed of polygamy, locally termed "plural marriage"...and which HBO network executives named "Big Love" for their popular HBO series on the subject.

 

About 4pm we pulled into the Country Aire RV Park in Cedar City, UT. With "full hook-ups" (water, electric, sewer & cable TV) plus Wi-Fi, we were living high! Within minutes, all three of us had devices connected to that fire hose of "1s and 0s" we know as broadband! Humans apparently have evolved to where Wi-Fi access is second only to oxygen for survival. Art grilled a fabulous dinner and soon it was time for bed. The RV has one queen bed and two full beds...mine was the converted sofa by day. With a very thoughtfully provided 2" foam pad, it was very comfortable. The next morning we headed east on Utah Route 14 towards Long Valley Junction.

Short tunnel on Scenic Byway 12

At Long Valley Juction we turned north on Route 12, appropriately designated as a Utah Scenic Byway. Scenic Byway 12 runs 124 miles through ruggedly beautiful landscapes, including 1.8 million acres of National Forest, five National/State Parks with six Visitor Centers. The scenery gradually began to change with red rock outcroppings and memorable landscapes. We stopped for lunch near the Thunder Mountain Trailhead amidst the red rocks.

One Hoodoo
Two Hoodoos
Three Hoodoos and more!

Our lunch stop included our first exposure to unique geologic spires called Hoodoos. Hoodoos range in size from a few feet to a hundred feet or more. They may occur as a solitary spire or in large groups as we were soon to see in Bryce Canyon NP.

This rock formation is called "The Sinking Ship"

At Bryce Canyon City we turned south on Route 63, which dead-ends at the far southern end in Bryce Canyon NP. Unlike the Grand Canyon, Bryce is not a true canyon but instead the eroded edge of a portion of the Colorado Plateau called the Paunsaugunt Plateau. Between 40-50 million years ago, Utah was an underwater basin into which limestone sediments formed. About 20 million years ago, massive tectonic plate activity uplifted the Colorado Plateau nearly two miles. The forces of weathering and erosion then cut the relatively soft limestone into Hoodoos and other exquisite contours.

A Hoodoo Village!
Thor's Hammer Hoodoo

Bryce Canyon NP is comprised of a highland edge accessible by vehicle with many trails winding down into the canyonlike erosions. Our first stop was Sunrise Point at an elevation of 8017 feet. Hiking along the Rim Trail, mom was as nervous as a cat on the edge of a bathtub full of water. She could barely watch as Art and I took photos of the Canyon floor from the Rim Trail.

Note the hiking/equestrian trail
Ma & Pa Hoodooo

Our next stop was lovely Sunset Point. Due to time constraints, I only hiked about 30 minutes below the highland rim on the Navajo Loop Trail trying to gain another perspective on these unique geologic formations.

Navajo Loop Trail
Trail into the Abyss!

As a side note, Bryce has year-round Interpretive Programs with topics ranging from geology to wildlife to astronomy. With the clear, dry air and high elevation, the "Dark Rangers" (see Bryce website) offer guided full moon night hikes among the moonlit hoodoos. And seeing photos taken of snowfall adding even further definition to the amazing landscape would make wintertime an interesting visit as well.

Continuing south in the park we reached aptly-named Inspiration Point. From the parking lot, the walk up to Inspiration Point is about 100 vertical feet and well worth the effort!

Note the 8 horses on the trail

We continued south to Ponderosa Point, Natural Bridge and eventually the 12 mile road that parallels the rim terminated at Rainbow Point...all geologic eye candy!

Retracing our route out of the park and north on Route 63, we turned east on Scenic Byway 12 and headed towards Cannonsville, UT where we would spend the night in aptly-named Kodachrome Basin. About the same time Kodachrome film was introduced in 1948, the National Geographical Society named the area with the consent of the Kodak Film Co. The Basin is entered from the south and is a cul-de-sac with layers of colored rock and hoodoos for ornamentation.

The Kodachrome Basin camp/RV site has only 31 spaces by advance reservation...and on this Monday night in April ALL spaces were sold out. As soon as we were parked, a skinny middle-aged man shuffled over from an adjacent campsite and asked if we were planning on staying more than one night-if not, he wanted our space for the next evening. The camp/RV site had very clean bath/shower facilities but, alas, no cable, cell or Wi-Fi...oh well, will just have to gaze at the spectacular scenery!

 

Thursday, November 14, 2013

Chicago: "City of Big Shoulders"

Departed Washington Dulles the day before Halloween and met up with Tom & Paula Stout in Chicago for a nice Italian dinner at the Rosebud Restaurant in the Theater District. We stayed downtown at the Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel near the Navy Pier and Millennium Park. In Norway, we had seen a number of Radisson Blu hotels but there are only three in the US...Chicago, Minneapolis, and the newest in Philadelphia. The Chicago Blu Aqua is centrally located to allow short walks to most shopping & sightseeing. This hotel is adjacent to a CVS drugstore, a very good Mexican restaurant (Mezcalina) and a GREAT grocery market--Mariano's!

Award-winning design of the Radisson Blu Aqua
Note Blu Aqua hotel in upper left third of display
Mariano's Market and Mezcalina restaurant

We joined the Stouts for Geek Day at The Chicago Field Museum of Natural History. The Field Museum can easily occupy a LONG day (load the CFM app!) with acres of exhibits encompassing anything that can walk, fly, swim, slither or crawl on our planet.

There is also the great CFM gift shop (worthwhile!) as well as several special exhibits, including one detailing the 1893 Chicago World's Fair. This "Columbian Exposition" was attended by 27 million people during its six month run--featuring the first Ferris Wheel, the "hoochy-koochy" dance and the first commercial appearance of alternating current electricity.

Sue, the T. rex!

Among the many exhibits, the CFM is home to a 42 foot long T. Rex skeleton named "Sue", actual stone tablets from inside Egyptian pyramids, great 3D IMAX movies, and an intriguing longitudinal exhibit on evolution. There are Earth Science exhibits, as well as gems and jade.

The next day, we visited the Driehaus Museum on the corner of Erie & Wabash. Construction of this old mansion took four years and cost $450,000 ($80+ million today to construct) and was reportedly the most elaborate and expensive private residence in Chicago at the time of its completion in 1883.

Driehaus Museum staircase
Tiffany glass-scapes
Constructed with real Nautilus shells

The interiors are decorated with marble, onyx, carved exotic and domestic woods, glazed tiles, and stained glass. On display are original furnishings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including a number of works by Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Although the mansion has been restored, the Driehaus Museum broadly interprets the prevailing design, architecture, and decorating tastes of Gilded Age America. The Driehaus Collection is one of the significant collections in the country of works by Louis Comfort Tiffany, numbering over 1500 objects.

Here are some views from our hotel.......

Buildings adjacent to Millennium Park
Navy Pier

Frank & Diane Cottone thoughtfully organized our Chicago evening activities to impart the essence of the city in which they live & love. One evening, 22 of us limo'd through a progressive dinner at 3 different locations...ending the evening with drinks at a jazz club. One mid-evening stop was Millenium Park to visit the art work Cloud Gate (better known as the "Bean") to see reflections of the city at night in its highly-polished surface.

Our PMA group dinner
"Bean" reflecting Chicago at night
The Back Room jazz club

The "Bean" is universally loved by both citizens and visitors to Chicago. It has been the subject of "billions and billions" of photos like these.....

The next morning, I decided to take an early walk around Millennium Park to see what the Bean looked like by herself...solo without the crowds...a study in contrasts!!!

The tiny photographer dead center looking up!

Further exploration of Millennium Park revealed other visual delights....

LED matrix from photo above!

On this occasion of my birthday, Frank & Diane Cottone took us to a traditional Chicago Italian restaurant that oozed with character....with the deceptively bland name: "Italian Village". In business since the Roaring 20's, Italian Village was founded by Alfredo & Ada Capitanini in 1927. White tablecloths, all-male wait staff and booths that are like little caves...makes one imagine the countless secrets that have been spoken in this very discreet atmosphere over the past 86 years. One dinner highlight was an Italian wine (Jassarte 2006) composed of 27(!!!!!) different varietal grapes...which shatters my personal all-time varietal blend total by more than 20!

Mafia boys in the booth cave!

After dinner, we walked to the Oriental Theater to see the Broadway play, "Wicked". Then, it was a windy walk back to the hotel to recharge for a full day at the Chicago Art Institute--the CAI in Millennium Park.

The CAI contains impressive art collections (load the CAI app!) of every medium and from every epoch in art history. Of particular interest were the early Asian and Greek collections.

Artist drawing in the CAI

Next stop was the Old Chicago Public Library, which now houses the Chicago Cultural Center. Influenced by the 1893 World's Fair: Columbian Exposition, this building was constructed in the Beaux Arts style between 1893 and 1897. The massive exterior includes colonnades supporting heavy cornices, while the interior houses a magnificent collection of mosaics and glasswork.

After one last walk through the downtown and our time in Chicago was coming to an end. This visit to Chicago included many great memories with friends in the "City of Big Shoulders" (Carl Sandburg, 1914).

CTA "El" on typical side street
Cottone quiz: where is this?